🔗 Share this article

When curating a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, tucked prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a outlying part of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

This compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. This honour has left the proprietors totally surprised.

“I’m utterly surprised,” says a owner’s son, referring to his family’s relentless work that led to their small shop securing such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the fare, and this eatery definitely delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent texture.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into many times that price.

The Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this gastronomic honour.